Thursday, 12 August 2010

Time to make the step up?

Fresh Arete has seen a lot of activity recently. Steve's FA then a few repeats, it's well worth climbing in it's current state, but the goal for myself and Franco, as locals, is a solo.
The climbing is around F7a+, not particularly hard but with no runners and hard to onsight slappy moves and a difficult to read hold, then the resulting solo may well be E7.
I've climbed Fresh Arete with the side runners second go ground up and felt pretty bomber on it then, only failing first time due to sweaty hands and being unable to chalk up. My second go i found a chalking point and the ascent went with no real issue.

Anyway, the climbing is good and suprisingly secure considering how it is climbed with slaps. The two moves i dislike, are both easy but just sketchy. Firstly a reach up left to a positive sidepull, i have to lock and then slightly dynamically reach which feels horrible. Then higher up is the crux, a tenuous smear which has always felt fine, but it's a smear.

I've since shunted the line 5 or 6 times and felt pretty bomber on it. My last two attempts utilising liquid chalk which seemed to help with my ailment of over sweating on the crux.
E7 6b, F7a+ solo? with a protectable topout, perhaps this is the time i make the step up to easyish headpointing, with their impressive looking grades...

On a similar note, i met up with Steve Ramsden for the first time at Round Crag. We sort of managed a half decent couple of hours at the crag, in between heavy rain, with me sort of half cleaning 'Honey Arete E5 6b***' and then after failing to find a sequence on TR, Steve then managed the line in damp conditions, with little effort!.
It's probably worth a clean and TR every time i head up there, it will get cleaner every time but it won't stay clean, on the north face of the pinnacle. Climbing didn't look all that 3* either, but the landing is soft into the bog!

1 comment:

Dave Warburton said...

How wrong was I. Quality arete climbing, highball and thin - *** in my book. The quagmire was drained so makes this a more pleasant outing!