After a fair few limestone visits, Huw said he was more keen for a gritstone crag. I decided i had some unfinished buisness at Slipstones, Huw had never been and i knew i could fill a car with people to pay the way.
We arrived to sun and nice temperatures, story of the week! not bad for march. Anyhow, I decided to focus my attentions rather than just randomly soloing everything, so got straight on Ripper and after a early slip i was topping out after the exciting upper section, not one to be underestimated. The day got pretty productive, with leads of 'Zoom' (HVS), 'Agra' (HVS) two routes i'd never had the balls to solo, seeing as they are so well protected. Also did Wisecrack which was nice, as it had always looked nails when i was younger.
I also managed 'Timeless Divide' which is the hanging arete after a V4 boulder problem start, I'd seen a chap lead it way back when and he said it was a whale top out and fully deserving of E2.
I climbed the V4 start and then plugged some cams in that break, which you could sleep under! then, knee bar in utilising the obvious holds (which i didn't do for a while!) i found the jugs on the top... whale you say?
After this, i only really had 2 objectives left. Sulky little boys, the Font7a+ arete, (which i later found is nails!) and Atomic (E3). Timmy was keen for Atomic, so i lead up, committed to the pocket and pulled for the top. It felt piss, really easy. Until i ended up down by timmy... What went wrong?! I tried it again and got further away from doing it 4 more times! Timmy then had some plays and eventually got it. Spurred on by this, i got back on and 'sent' it first go? Completely identical sequence everytime, was it cooler? more windy? No idea, but anyhow it's a great little sequence a cool V3? above the cam laced break.
An evening was spent soloing around on the brilliant micro routes, Aces High (VS), Ellingstring (VS), Steve's Wall, Pauls Arete and Stainthorpes Wall (all E1). We also met a potential Leeds Unier as well, which was nice we need a few more keen climbers to join the club who know what they're doing already!!
Friday, 11 March 2011
Saturday, 5 March 2011
Trollers Gill
I'd been to Troller's Gill before and wanted to do the Jim Grin F7a. Unfortunately at the time i wasn't leading F7a and the same day had climbed The Diedre (E2) at Kilnsey. I had on that occasion climbed Shaggy Dog Story (f6c+) which was nice enough.
Anyway, Saturday was grey and drizzly, so up early and keen we had to sit on our hands a while and we rushed some uni work out the way by 11ish. Then set off, hoping it would have brightened up by lunchtime. It didn't really brighten up, but the drizzle stopped and there was a chilly breeze. Regardless, we arrived at Troller's Gill to overhanging walls of white (dry) limestone.
I looked at the Jim Grin and exactly the same as last time i came, wasn't entirely sure where it went and decided it was something i'd rather onsight than redpoint, it just looks like if you don't get it first go you'll get more and more tired if you have to try it twice or three times, resulting in a failure. It was cold too and we don't have a clipstick to retrieve if i couldn't do it, so being a wuss i said i wasn't keen.
Last time i was there a bloke told me to do Angelic Upstart F7a, which he said was best if the first two bolts were clipped, so as we warmed up on that F5 on the left hand side we did just that. It was cold and i could feel the psyche draining from me, but i decided that the more bouldery looking sequence through the first overlap looked a nicer propersition, today. (excuses, excuses)
I pulled through the overlap on unfortunately damp undercuts, which made staying on the next sidepulls interesting, i managed and got a left foot up to a small rail. There were two side pulls to go for, a wierd blocky looking one, that didn't look stable and a better one that was a bit lower. I opted for the lower, solid looking one. It wasn't right. I tried to pop up but got it wrong and was off. Gutted.
I tried the loose looking sidepull, it was the perfect height and was totally solid. More gutted. I lowered off and Huw had a play doing it a totally different sequence, ha!
I got back on it after a bit of a rest and food and using my slightly weird sequence (left hand to undercut, right foot up high for balance and match into the wet undercut) managed to gain the sidepulls above the roof (ignoring the apparently juggy pocket just right...) which allowed a quick hand wipe and chalk and then up into the groove above, which for some reason felt traddy, weird bridging and sort of half rests.
Enjoyable route, but would have been super necky at E6 6b, admittedly, a pad or two at the start might have made things slightly nicer...? I think a couple of wires would have gone in higher too, anyway, respect to anyone that onsighted that as E6, top effort.
Chilly and a bit 'over-limed' we drove back to leeds, Boro lost 5-2 to Reading apparently and Huw and I decided gritstone was on the cards. I fancy some trad, preferrably on limestone or the lakes but it's meant to be like 2 degrees tomorrow, so perhaps Slipstones would be a better bet. I do have unfinished buisness with Atomic E3 6a, Sinbad E3/4 6b and Sulky Little Boys Font 7a+... I say unfinished i've never actually tried them and seeing as i've been to slipstones twice that's pretty bad going!
We'll see, very keen for all this bolt clipping. Huw and Conor said something funny the other day - having headpointed an E7 in the summer and now turning my hand to sport, perhap's i'm becoming the next Sean Jacobs? It might not be a bad thing, but will i spend years in leeds? Do a PhD? Entrepeuring my way to sunny holidays, clipping bolts in Spain?
Nah, doubt it - A geology PhD sounds friggin' horrible!
Anyway, Saturday was grey and drizzly, so up early and keen we had to sit on our hands a while and we rushed some uni work out the way by 11ish. Then set off, hoping it would have brightened up by lunchtime. It didn't really brighten up, but the drizzle stopped and there was a chilly breeze. Regardless, we arrived at Troller's Gill to overhanging walls of white (dry) limestone.
I looked at the Jim Grin and exactly the same as last time i came, wasn't entirely sure where it went and decided it was something i'd rather onsight than redpoint, it just looks like if you don't get it first go you'll get more and more tired if you have to try it twice or three times, resulting in a failure. It was cold too and we don't have a clipstick to retrieve if i couldn't do it, so being a wuss i said i wasn't keen.
Last time i was there a bloke told me to do Angelic Upstart F7a, which he said was best if the first two bolts were clipped, so as we warmed up on that F5 on the left hand side we did just that. It was cold and i could feel the psyche draining from me, but i decided that the more bouldery looking sequence through the first overlap looked a nicer propersition, today. (excuses, excuses)
I pulled through the overlap on unfortunately damp undercuts, which made staying on the next sidepulls interesting, i managed and got a left foot up to a small rail. There were two side pulls to go for, a wierd blocky looking one, that didn't look stable and a better one that was a bit lower. I opted for the lower, solid looking one. It wasn't right. I tried to pop up but got it wrong and was off. Gutted.
I tried the loose looking sidepull, it was the perfect height and was totally solid. More gutted. I lowered off and Huw had a play doing it a totally different sequence, ha!
I got back on it after a bit of a rest and food and using my slightly weird sequence (left hand to undercut, right foot up high for balance and match into the wet undercut) managed to gain the sidepulls above the roof (ignoring the apparently juggy pocket just right...) which allowed a quick hand wipe and chalk and then up into the groove above, which for some reason felt traddy, weird bridging and sort of half rests.
Enjoyable route, but would have been super necky at E6 6b, admittedly, a pad or two at the start might have made things slightly nicer...? I think a couple of wires would have gone in higher too, anyway, respect to anyone that onsighted that as E6, top effort.
Chilly and a bit 'over-limed' we drove back to leeds, Boro lost 5-2 to Reading apparently and Huw and I decided gritstone was on the cards. I fancy some trad, preferrably on limestone or the lakes but it's meant to be like 2 degrees tomorrow, so perhaps Slipstones would be a better bet. I do have unfinished buisness with Atomic E3 6a, Sinbad E3/4 6b and Sulky Little Boys Font 7a+... I say unfinished i've never actually tried them and seeing as i've been to slipstones twice that's pretty bad going!
We'll see, very keen for all this bolt clipping. Huw and Conor said something funny the other day - having headpointed an E7 in the summer and now turning my hand to sport, perhap's i'm becoming the next Sean Jacobs? It might not be a bad thing, but will i spend years in leeds? Do a PhD? Entrepeuring my way to sunny holidays, clipping bolts in Spain?
Nah, doubt it - A geology PhD sounds friggin' horrible!
A dry week - Yhorkshire Limestone!
It's been dry since monday, so come wednesday myself and Huw decided that Panorama and Moughton Nab were on the cards. We managed to find Conor, Timmy, Alex and Tom who were keen and in the Espace we drove, relatively cheaply out to the dales.
Moughton was the destination first and after a warm up and a nice tick of 'Avalon' F6c, we went to the steep right hand side that had been drying off nicely in the warming sun.
"Bucket Symphony" F7a, looked like the most appetising line and i said i'd go first - prepared to fall off and end up redpointing it. Anyhow, the first move is a big jump for a massive jug. I didn't commit for a while but when i did properly go for the jug it was much easier than anticipated. Climbing up the jugs and incuts i soon encountered a loose rock, so jumped off.
I pulled back on and climbed up to this and removed it.
I had a rest and Huw had a go, and after sorting the start out, flashed the rest of the route following my lead and chalk... I then got it on my first ground up attempt which was nice and flowy, i didn't even feel pumped at the top.
Timmy and Conor got on it and Timmy managed a fine flash (after sorting out the start) and i climbed 'Burly In Ribblesdale' F6c, which climbs to the left via a reach and pop all on good holds. Nice.
The Sun was lost so we all left to Panorama. We thought it as closer than it was and after thinking we wouldn't find it, i ended up careering around looking for the correct way over to some distant cliffs. Found it and i decided to just get on Panoramic, F7a, again for the flash.
Unfortunately i was knackered and the bouldery, powerful moves on jugs admittedly, powered me out. I put the clips in and sorted out some good beta and Timmy flashed it, following my line of chalk and utilising the hidden incuts and jugs here and there.
Huw mean while climbed a fine F6c+ and F7a to the right. Making me feel pretty downhearted about being totally knackered.
Therefore i decided we'd come back the next day!
We returned to Moughton and i wanted a play on the less steep walls right of the Moughton Mauler (E4), which looks ok as well for the record, bit blocky and dirty. Anyway, it didn't really happen a quick try of a F7a+ and a fall off a cool short F6c meant that we were a bit dissolutioned with the place. So we returned to Panorama Crag.
I felt a bit tired and feared not being able to cleanly do Panoramic, which to me seemed like a wasted journey! So i ate a shit load of food, flapjack and a pasty, all the John Dunne recommended stuff and had a lie down in the sun. After this i jumped on Panoramic and despatched it first go. Happy.
Huw then flashed it, so i asked him for beta on the F7a he did the day before, which he told me and i prompty flashed that. Doubly Happy.
Huw then did a steep one move F6b+ and i got a 'second wind' and started feeling pretty psyched to get on another F7a, but with light running out and it getting cold fast i ended the day with a quick 'send' of a F6c, and F6b, up the blocky overhangs to the left of Panoramic. Awesome couple of days out on the Limestone, really really happy to get some done before Easter and good to tick some Limestone 7a's in England, even if they are somewhat bouldery.
Very keen for Troller's Gill next.
Moughton was the destination first and after a warm up and a nice tick of 'Avalon' F6c, we went to the steep right hand side that had been drying off nicely in the warming sun.
"Bucket Symphony" F7a, looked like the most appetising line and i said i'd go first - prepared to fall off and end up redpointing it. Anyhow, the first move is a big jump for a massive jug. I didn't commit for a while but when i did properly go for the jug it was much easier than anticipated. Climbing up the jugs and incuts i soon encountered a loose rock, so jumped off.
I pulled back on and climbed up to this and removed it.
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| Starting lunge for the huge bucket on 'Bucket Symphony' |
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| Timmy cruising the start to 'Bucket Symphony' |
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| Conor on the powerful starting moves of 'Bucket Symphony' |
Timmy and Conor got on it and Timmy managed a fine flash (after sorting out the start) and i climbed 'Burly In Ribblesdale' F6c, which climbs to the left via a reach and pop all on good holds. Nice.
The Sun was lost so we all left to Panorama. We thought it as closer than it was and after thinking we wouldn't find it, i ended up careering around looking for the correct way over to some distant cliffs. Found it and i decided to just get on Panoramic, F7a, again for the flash.
Unfortunately i was knackered and the bouldery, powerful moves on jugs admittedly, powered me out. I put the clips in and sorted out some good beta and Timmy flashed it, following my line of chalk and utilising the hidden incuts and jugs here and there.
Huw mean while climbed a fine F6c+ and F7a to the right. Making me feel pretty downhearted about being totally knackered.
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| Awesome 'Sole Marks' in underlying Greywacke near Panorama Crag |
Therefore i decided we'd come back the next day!
We returned to Moughton and i wanted a play on the less steep walls right of the Moughton Mauler (E4), which looks ok as well for the record, bit blocky and dirty. Anyway, it didn't really happen a quick try of a F7a+ and a fall off a cool short F6c meant that we were a bit dissolutioned with the place. So we returned to Panorama Crag.
I felt a bit tired and feared not being able to cleanly do Panoramic, which to me seemed like a wasted journey! So i ate a shit load of food, flapjack and a pasty, all the John Dunne recommended stuff and had a lie down in the sun. After this i jumped on Panoramic and despatched it first go. Happy.
Huw Goodall flashing 'Panoramic' F7a** at Panorama Crag from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Huw then flashed it, so i asked him for beta on the F7a he did the day before, which he told me and i prompty flashed that. Doubly Happy.
Huw then did a steep one move F6b+ and i got a 'second wind' and started feeling pretty psyched to get on another F7a, but with light running out and it getting cold fast i ended the day with a quick 'send' of a F6c, and F6b, up the blocky overhangs to the left of Panoramic. Awesome couple of days out on the Limestone, really really happy to get some done before Easter and good to tick some Limestone 7a's in England, even if they are somewhat bouldery.
Very keen for Troller's Gill next.
Tuesday, 1 March 2011
Almscliffe and Sport...
My thoughts this year have been on getting stronger and better as a climber - rather than just focusing on trad. My nemesis is bouldering, especially so gritstone but i have gritted my teeth recently and have 'hit the cliffe' with my housemate Huw. I must admit that i am fond of what i class as 'highball' gritstone like Simon's Seat South Crag and Ogden Clough but 'harder' more technical or powerful bouldering isn't my thing - as i don't get on with slopers and i'm not strong - Hence why i'm willing to try it now as it's bound to get me strong!
Anyhow, a couple of trips to Almscliffe allowed the ticking of some V6/font7a's around the Crucifix area of Almscliffe and i'm currently failing on the last move of Demon Wall Roof font 7a+, this i'm fairly sure will go soon. I've briefly held the top hold of Crusis Font 7a+/7b?? and me and Huw's currently project is 'The Keel'. This is V8+/Font 7b+ and involves some pretty cool moves, so i'm looking forward to getting back to this, hopefully i can finish off DWroof so i can focus on it more.
I've also managed to get some limestone action in, we travelled to the very quickly drying Robin Proctors Scar. When we arrived it was chilly, damp and we warmed up on some F6a+, which was really nice. The crag quickly dried off and i decided to try to get through some F6c/F6c+'s as there is only 2 F7a/F7a+'s and they didn't look my style. Anyhow, i enjoyed the 'milage' 6c day and it bodes well for E3 ticking. Very very keen to get to some other crags around, thinking Panorama and Moughton soon for more focussed F7.. climbing which i'm looking forward too. It's all training for becoming a stronger climber which i should do, it will definately aid my trad climbing. In conjunction with the bouldering too i feel more confident on the gritstone, ultimately i'm getting more out of my increasingly runnning out number of days climbing (due to geology related field course and exams).
We'll see what happens in the next few weeks - i think we have 5 weeks or so until easter, where we go to Ireland for 2 weeks geologying and then 2 weeks in Spain sport climbing (which is what all this training is for). After Easter spain, it's all about revision and catching up on the work i should have done in easter (fieldwork reports!) so i think i'll miss climbing here and then after hte exams it's straight out to the dales for my dissertation mapping. I will get some climbing in here, i must admit i could be somewhere shit, but i will probably have to work extra hard for partners and such. Looks like a year of Limestone for me and more importantly bouldering and sport! Keen for it, if i'm honest!
Anyhow, a couple of trips to Almscliffe allowed the ticking of some V6/font7a's around the Crucifix area of Almscliffe and i'm currently failing on the last move of Demon Wall Roof font 7a+, this i'm fairly sure will go soon. I've briefly held the top hold of Crusis Font 7a+/7b?? and me and Huw's currently project is 'The Keel'. This is V8+/Font 7b+ and involves some pretty cool moves, so i'm looking forward to getting back to this, hopefully i can finish off DWroof so i can focus on it more.
I've also managed to get some limestone action in, we travelled to the very quickly drying Robin Proctors Scar. When we arrived it was chilly, damp and we warmed up on some F6a+, which was really nice. The crag quickly dried off and i decided to try to get through some F6c/F6c+'s as there is only 2 F7a/F7a+'s and they didn't look my style. Anyhow, i enjoyed the 'milage' 6c day and it bodes well for E3 ticking. Very very keen to get to some other crags around, thinking Panorama and Moughton soon for more focussed F7.. climbing which i'm looking forward too. It's all training for becoming a stronger climber which i should do, it will definately aid my trad climbing. In conjunction with the bouldering too i feel more confident on the gritstone, ultimately i'm getting more out of my increasingly runnning out number of days climbing (due to geology related field course and exams).
We'll see what happens in the next few weeks - i think we have 5 weeks or so until easter, where we go to Ireland for 2 weeks geologying and then 2 weeks in Spain sport climbing (which is what all this training is for). After Easter spain, it's all about revision and catching up on the work i should have done in easter (fieldwork reports!) so i think i'll miss climbing here and then after hte exams it's straight out to the dales for my dissertation mapping. I will get some climbing in here, i must admit i could be somewhere shit, but i will probably have to work extra hard for partners and such. Looks like a year of Limestone for me and more importantly bouldering and sport! Keen for it, if i'm honest!
Thursday, 10 February 2011
Sunny Simon's Seat
After a few months of very little climbing, a few potters around running along the canal and some vain attempts at Fingerboarding, we finally went to a crag proper.Simon's Seat, up above Bolton Abbey is a great little crag, the North buttress was cold and wet but the suntrap, south face was beautiful.
The climbing is on awesome, pebbly gritstone, the really good stuff worth shouting about! I've only experienced grit like it at Healheugh, another quality gritstone micro-crag.
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| Galaxy Prow, Font 7a*** and the Mapping Area behind |
After a few months of very little climbing, a few potters around running along the canal and some vain attempts at Fingerboarding, we finally went to a crag proper.
The climbing is on awesome, pebbly gritstone, the really good stuff worth shouting about! I've only experienced grit like it at Healheugh, another quality gritstone micro-crag.
Anywho, myself and Huw were psyched to try the Classic highball E3's, 'I'll Bet She Does' and 'And She Was'. We stuck a couple of pads under the arete and then, faultered quite quickly in the heat...
Huw then managed to get quite high to a crimpy rail but decided against it, it was skritly and sweaty.
I was struggling to gain the crimpy rail, from the large flat crimp.
So we moved onto the wall climb, 'I'll Be She Does', however climbing the central wall without the crack was a bit eliminate, but it was possible, climbing up via a mono and tennis ball. We however didn't really get any higher than this either, so i went for a walk around the north wall and Huw spotted a good looking chipped prow.
I wandered back and found Huw finishing off the final moves of the prow, so i gave him a spot and he did it well, it looked good but i was keen to save the tips and strength for the Arete, so didn't get on it probably worth going back up for a day bouldering there though in the future. The Prow was Galaxy, Font 7a.
I then wandered back to 'And She Was', pottered up to my previous highpoint, left hand on the slopy-crimp on the greenpatch on the arete. I then found getting a foot up fooking tenuous, slippy and committing, then sketched a pop for the big, obvious pocket which wasn't deep and bomber... but it was big enough to stick with a bit of adrenaline! Topped out and felt happy to have salvaged the walk up!
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Me above the hard climbing on 'And She Was'   |
Finished the beautfiul day highballing at Lord's Seat on yet more, pebbly rough Gritstone - really nice day to get the psyche back :-)
Very keen now for more Moorland Grit, perhaps' i'll be become a convert? Yeh, I doubt it too!
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| Pretty relieved at the top. |
Very keen now for more Moorland Grit, perhaps' i'll be become a convert? Yeh, I doubt it too!
Tuesday, 8 February 2011
Running...
After a winter of limited 'snowy' climbing and no rock touching since November, i came back into climbing with a brief high with a quick 'send' of the Dolphin Belly Slap, V6? at Almscliffe. I say a brief high as i then got shut down on Pebble Wall (V5) and Sloper Patrol (V5) and some other V5 traverse. I did however manage to tick 'Almost Pleasant' (V5) at Ilkley just the other day and this had some meaning to me as i remember one of my first LUUMC trips, in the rain, sheltering under the Calf but i didnt get the tick.
Anyway, this was all over a period of about 3 weeks, so not a lot of climbing, so i've given up and started running. I'm not a runner, i never will be. I have neither the ability, joints or will to be any good at it, but once going ( which can take some serious effort!) i generally quite enjoy it.
I've tried running in Leeds before and hated it, but now i've found the Canal and it's rubbish filled quietness. The odd strange looking dog walker or Chav riding a bike isn't all that bad...
Anyhow, i'm hoping to build up to 4 runs a week which i think is enough for someone with a poorly tracking patella. With a weekly aim at 30km a week with anymore being a bonus.
Currently doing 8 - 12km runs, twice a week which is enough not to put me off before it gets addictive.
Here's to potential positive effects to my climbing - ie Shift some weight and gain some aerobic fitness... But i guess i'm going to have to start climbing again really - especially as i'm already booked up to hit Chorro in Easter...
Anyway, this was all over a period of about 3 weeks, so not a lot of climbing, so i've given up and started running. I'm not a runner, i never will be. I have neither the ability, joints or will to be any good at it, but once going ( which can take some serious effort!) i generally quite enjoy it.
I've tried running in Leeds before and hated it, but now i've found the Canal and it's rubbish filled quietness. The odd strange looking dog walker or Chav riding a bike isn't all that bad...
Anyhow, i'm hoping to build up to 4 runs a week which i think is enough for someone with a poorly tracking patella. With a weekly aim at 30km a week with anymore being a bonus.
Currently doing 8 - 12km runs, twice a week which is enough not to put me off before it gets addictive.
Here's to potential positive effects to my climbing - ie Shift some weight and gain some aerobic fitness... But i guess i'm going to have to start climbing again really - especially as i'm already booked up to hit Chorro in Easter...
Monday, 3 January 2011
2010 - A Round Up
Thinking back, slightly hungover on the previous year, my first thoughts were that it was a bon year. But i always struggle to remember the finer points, the details and the interesting little aspects that define a year worth describing as interesting. The only way I do this is to re-read blogposts and look at the UKC logbook, thank god for such devices as i'd forget stuff i've done, even really good stuff!
Anyway, 2010 started with a winter route with my bro and then, a uptake of Trad again, mainly at the Leeds local spots like Baildon and Almscliffe. I seem to remember feeling decidedly weak and falling off Moria (E2) at Baildon.
Return to form:
After this we managed to get a brief spell on the Yorkshire Limestone as well, with an extremely dry January and by early March my last winter route was climbed, Moss Ghyll (V, 5) on ScaFell. And by the end of March i was climbing regularly, starting to regain a bit of fitness with a reasonably successful trip to Millstone/Lawrencefield with the MUMC or BUCS or something. I remember climbing Suspense (E2) a route i was apprehensive about in regards to onsighting it... which i did, with ease - which was nice. I also onsighted Satire (E2) an extremely steep, strenuous gritstone route. Quite unique!
At a similar time we also revisited Ravensdale AKA Stoupe Brow on the moors. This coastal crag, near RobinHoods Bay was in need for further development and a quick trip allowed the ascent and repeat of some of the prominent cracklines, and some work on the 'White Scoop' (E7).
I spent April swanning around soloing places, a lovely evening up at Ogden Clough comes to mind with some quality solos of gritstone micro-routes. I enjoyed it the most i think, because for me, Gritstone is all about micro routes, 6-8m lines which takes gear but whats the point, just spend the evening tootling about, Slipstones, Ogden and the like is what i think of when i think Gritstone.
Seacliffs and Slate:
May saw my first trip to the Sea Cliffs of Wales. Indeed, by first Seacliffe experience. Admittedly i wasn't anywhere near the sea at Gogarth Uppertier but i enjoyed the Strand (E2) and also the funky Failsafe (E2). After this i also climbed one of the best routes i've done on Slate - the German Schoolgirl (E2).
Anyway, 2010 started with a winter route with my bro and then, a uptake of Trad again, mainly at the Leeds local spots like Baildon and Almscliffe. I seem to remember feeling decidedly weak and falling off Moria (E2) at Baildon.
Return to form:
After this we managed to get a brief spell on the Yorkshire Limestone as well, with an extremely dry January and by early March my last winter route was climbed, Moss Ghyll (V, 5) on ScaFell. And by the end of March i was climbing regularly, starting to regain a bit of fitness with a reasonably successful trip to Millstone/Lawrencefield with the MUMC or BUCS or something. I remember climbing Suspense (E2) a route i was apprehensive about in regards to onsighting it... which i did, with ease - which was nice. I also onsighted Satire (E2) an extremely steep, strenuous gritstone route. Quite unique!
Satire E2, Baildon Bank
Moors FA's & Gritstone:
At a similar time we also revisited Ravensdale AKA Stoupe Brow on the moors. This coastal crag, near RobinHoods Bay was in need for further development and a quick trip allowed the ascent and repeat of some of the prominent cracklines, and some work on the 'White Scoop' (E7).
I spent April swanning around soloing places, a lovely evening up at Ogden Clough comes to mind with some quality solos of gritstone micro-routes. I enjoyed it the most i think, because for me, Gritstone is all about micro routes, 6-8m lines which takes gear but whats the point, just spend the evening tootling about, Slipstones, Ogden and the like is what i think of when i think Gritstone.
Seacliffs and Slate:
May saw my first trip to the Sea Cliffs of Wales. Indeed, by first Seacliffe experience. Admittedly i wasn't anywhere near the sea at Gogarth Uppertier but i enjoyed the Strand (E2) and also the funky Failsafe (E2). After this i also climbed one of the best routes i've done on Slate - the German Schoolgirl (E2).
German Schoolgirl (E2) Dinorwig Slate Quarries
Yorkshire Limestone:
After this the weather seemed to pick up and I found myself at the yorkshire Limestone more often, climbing for the first time at Malham and also trad at Kilnsey. It was also this time i discovered that my main climbing partner at Leeds, Ewan, was totally against Sport climbing. This still strikes me as odd seeing as he spends a lot of time 'training' at the Depot, something i can't bring myself to do. Anyhow, we spent a good few days, ticking E2 routes like The Diedre, Crossbones and Sundance Wall. I also did my first sport route on a sweltering day (the same day as the Diedre) at Troller's Gill, some pleasant but short F6c+. Pretty stoked to go back there and do the F7-stuff there. To be honest, i'm pretty psyched for anything on Yorkshire/Cumbria/Peak Limestone as well as Seacliffs and Lakes/Wales Trad. (Just like anyone else really!)
Exam Leave:
I think the end of May/Early June saw me on Exam leave and I was home in Castleton without my standard climbing partner Franco. I ended up getting 'stoked' knowing i needed to climb before the exams and then my 2 weeks of geology fieldwork in Scotland so i, quite uncharacteristically, one foggy/Sea fret Yorkshire day jumped in the car without too much thought and drove over the A66 to Brough to a soloing crag I'd heard of but never been to - Windmore End. I ended up spending the day soloing limestone micro-routes, in 20degree heat with a beating sun with lush views across the Eden? Valley. Amazing stuff. I also did some of my first E3's for quite some time, admittedly, they were soft i think but micro-soloing is my forte i would say, generally pushing the boat out more than most.
80's Pete / Neckband Crag:
On the way back i had a brain-wave and rang 80's Pete. A lad that i'd never really met from Saltburn. He's stoked and works mornings and such so is often available for climbing. This was a lucky break for me, as he was climbing in the same grade range that I was and was psyched for similar stuff. This meant I could go and get on E1/E2 territory in the Lakes without Franco (rightly) encouraging me to "stop choading around on E2 and get on something 'ard". Anyway, i climbed some stuff i'd wanted to do for ages, Big Dipper/Mirrormere (E2) at Hodge Close Quarry and Asphasia (E2) at Sergeant Slabs.
The big deal for me though was me persauding Pete to go to Langdale and walk to the apparently perma-wet Neckband crag. I'd seen it in the guide, it's got a beautifully draw topo in the Langdale guide, showing the strong lines the crag exhibits and a plethora of stars at E2. I was drueling.
We walked in on a boiling day to this north-facing crag and arrived to a chilly, breeze whipping around it. It was outrageously cold considering what the rest of the country was experiencing!
It didn't matter and we climbed some of the finest stuff i've done. Admittedly i've not really climbed all that many 'uber-classics' but these climbs are certainly deserving of *** especially compared to some of the shite that gets ***. Tracheometry, which is a 'variation' on a 'bitch-of-a-start' E3, is one of the best E2's i've ever, ever done. 45 metre single pitch of amazing overlaps and thin fingerlocks and such. Razor Crack (E1) is one of the best single pitch lines i've been lucky enough to climb too.Outrageously good or so i thought anyway! If you get the chance you've got to go to Neckband.
With the Alps trip encroaching fast, but with a 2 week loss of time for geology i was really psyched to go to the lakes and do big routes. Franco however, back from Manchester wasn't. He was far more interested in Moorland FA's. The main objective of his, the Kepwick Wall.
I'd never seen it, but we arrived on a windy, cold and dampish day. Setting up a TR we played around on the amazingly hard, tenuous, dynamic, hard, thin, smeary, reachy, balancy, tenuous, hard and death-causing moves. Franco was psyched, i was happy to treat it as training...
While in the Torridonian area mapping I also had a brief foray into the Caves around Inchnadamph which was pleasant relief from the mapping and on our 'day off', i fell ran from Inchna up to Ben More Assynt and Conival which was pretty cool... Awesome area of the country, shame it's in the arse-end of nowhere as i'll probs be reluctant to head back!
The Alps:
We'd always wanted to go to the Alps. Franco had, he went that ill-fated year with Ian Jackson and Luke etc. I had stayed at home, over-cautious about my injured knee. This year however i was more prepared to go and see how it went.
We chose to 'warm up' on the Chamonix Aguillies. These short (long for the UK!) multi-pitch routes up to, around 10 pitches generally, but climbing at our (my) grade was going to be very good stuff!
The weather was boiling. Far too hot i would sweat my way up from Cham to the plan and then carry on up to the Blatiere or the L'M or Peigne to get on a route. It was a month of Very early valley starts, rests on the plan and then routes til the afternoon. Aweseome stuff - the first couple were killers but cable-cars just aren't game (unless they were cheaper...!)
The routes on the more 'adventurous' peaks were falling down, even at night. It was incredibly hot. Anyhow, we achieved some amazing routes, Menegaux (E1), Majorette Thatcher (E2/3), Verdon Memories (E3/4) into the SW arete of the Peigne and then descending with a doubled 60metre..., Le Ticket et la Lune (E2/3) as well, were all fantastic routes, with great climbing on amazing rock.
The Majorette - Blatiere
However the weather didn't stay hot. It soon got unsettled, very, very unsettled. The whole of the alps seemed to be in the same boat and for the next 2 weeks we sat around in our shack (eventually moving to a proper shack) and climbing some sport in the valley. I didn't mind this, as i wanted to clip some bolts all year and i managed my first F7a's onsight - or so i thought. It so happens that a F6c+ i onsighted in Costa Blanca has been upgraded so that was nice too see. I also met the talented Will Sim for the first time and some other cool guys like Chris and Sam.
Verdon Memories
Verdon Memories
I think my most vivid memory was when we threw caution to the wind and walked up to the Peigne, after an evening of heavy rain. Franco and I were utterly-psyched for Dimanche Noir. F7a slab climbing apparently.
We climbed up the first pitch and i hung out, ready for a long time hanging on the belay while Franco tenuously onsighted the slab pitch. I wasn't wrong.
While Franco, picked his way up the slab on tiny white and pink crystal clusters, Sam and Chris were on a line to the left. Chris took a whipper and then began to aid his way up - the banter was hilarious.
Franco was still slowly and methodically making his way up the line of smears, past some seepage.
The weather rolled in, and we were soon in a cloud. I was shivering like mad and franco was below what he was calling the crux, about 5 metres from the belay. He made it, i don't know how. I seconded, reasonably well at first the smears were outrageously thin but held weight and i soon arrived at the crux. I fell off trying the outrageously contorted rockover/reach thing but some of the 'holds' were damp in the 100% humidity of the cloud. I still don't know how Franco climbed it.
Shack
In Absentia - F7b
On the rap down we saved Chris who was stood on a tiny, sloping ledge for the past 20 minutes? And we ran back to the tent just before a storm hit. We woke to snow plastering the range (full mixed conditions) and we sat in the tent for 2 days while it snowed and rained.
We ran to Switzerland and went to Giertroz, where we had a good day before a big storm hit. I nearly onsighted In Absentia F7b, failing at the last clip. Franco O/S it and we both thought it was one of the best routes we've done.
Returning from the Alps, lighter, stronger and psyched Franco and I went moors FA hunting. We achieved some good stuff at Round Crag, with Fresh Arete, Vampiric Obsession and some other stuff around and about.
After the moors episode i climbed with Ralph for the first time, climbing some quality stuff at Tremadog, (Grasper E2, Void E3) and also some great stuff at Gogarth with Supercrack (E3) and Quartz Icicle (E2). Also the beautful but short Phagocyte (HVS)
Great back end of the year but soon Uni work got too much and then i tried bouldering and pulled a finger tendon and i've not climbed for months since really! Weak, yes probably but i don't know yet - i haven't climbed for ages!
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