Scugdale - climbing well, but not well enough!

The third weekend of February was very similar to the second, tropical! So Franco and I fresh after returning from Pavey Ark on the Saturday night ventured to Scugdale to finally finish some routes we had wanted to do there. ‘New Dimensions’ and ‘Finger Jam’ were the routes on my wishlist. We however, stopped off at ‘The Shelf’ and after gaining the shelf and having a bit of a warm up, we decided that the effects on our hands wasn’t good so we went straight over to Cleft Buttress. The overhanging crack of New Dimensions looks technical and awkward, so we gave it a go. The lower wall is a sequence of moves that leads to a long reach to a good pocket; however the upperwall is hard and tiring. We gave up and tried Finger Jam.

This wasn’t a good idea, because we ended up trying Finger Jam for sometime and completed it, we were now tired. Then Franco found ‘Elimination’ which he tried and tried and then suddenly he held the sloped and shot of leftwards to finish the climb. I was left with the feeling I had to try it so I did. An awkward pocket allows a reach up to a small but reasonably positive crimp. Feet up and a reach to another reasonably positive pocket, then a long reach or ‘pop’ for the sloper. The route is made harder by the fact it is just as overhanging as New Dimensions. After a few goes however and considerable amounts of finger pain and shoulder ache, the route fell to me too. We then attempted New Dimensions once again, but we found we were far too pumped so this again will have to be left till later!

Getting it wrong on New Dimensions!

We returned to Scugdale to try New Dimensions, but it was awful. It was blowin' a gale and the rock was slightly damp so we journied back to Scugdale Popular and climbed 'The Shelf'. A problem i had wanted to do for a while now, so i was glad to do it. A good, fun and not without interest (the top out) route that packs a lot in to a small climb. Good Value.

The Peak

The second weekend in February saw ridiculous temperatures and fantastic amounts of sun! The plan was to travel to the ‘Peak’ and get on some Grit stone, something I had only experienced in Yorkshire, at Slipstones.
We motored down to Stanage, as Ian Jackson wanted to have a shot at ‘Black Hawk Bastion’ at Popular. So Franco and I went searching for nice routes that weren’t currently populated with climbers and we found a route called Hybrid. A nice route, however, we got a bit of a shock when the Para-gliders started whizzing past! Not something I’ve ever experienced on the Moors.
After this, we thought we’d try something harder, so we carried on along Popular until we found a route that really appealed to us both. ‘Keep Pedalling’. At E2, it was at our grade pinnacle, so we assessed the climb from below, it was a solo.

Climbing it was a good test of nerve and technique and it propelled us on to thinking perhaps E3 would fall to day. So we carried on to the Plantation, and there we tried Telli. However, failure was all that we managed on Telli so it’s a definite example of ‘next time’.

Franco then disappeard off further into the Plantation buttresses, and then returned with a huge smile on his face. He took me to this route and I checked the guidebook. E4 5c. Were not E4 climbers, but this was too good to turn down. So Franco soloed up and made the awkward and delicate moves to the bulge. Pulled around and it was over. My turn, the initial crack was good fun and the first few moves on the delicate slab were fun, however, the height was suddenly apparent and the slopers were quite un-nerving. I dithered but then made slightly different moves to Franco up the bulge.
After taking some pictures of a climber on Cavalry and the Para-gliders we returned to find Ian Jackson and Ian Moore and after Ian finished is ‘usual’ solos we left to find a bivi spot.


We biviied in the Burbage Car Park hardly ‘roughing it’ but a funny experience all the same. We chatted for a few hours, usually about the food Ian and Ian were tucking into (sausages and Pasta). The water that it had been cooked in had turned brown and was poured away behind Ian Jackson; this was hilarious so I took a picture.
We then heckled Franco, because he believes the “Southern” climate would allow him to sleep without a sleeping bag. (See picture), he was wrong. The lovely days meant for freezing nights.


The next day we went to Burbage North, we had a go soloing some routes and Franco lead a bold E2 eliminate, and Ian Jackson and Ian Moor lead some classic routes with ‘Big Ian’ leading ‘Long Tall Sally’. We then motored off to Lawrencefield, were Franco and Ian Jackson had a pop at ‘Suspence’. Succeeding they were very happy with themselves! Ian Moore and I went for more leisurely ascents of the very nice ‘Meringue’ and ‘Once Pegged Wall’

Ian Jackson then tried ‘Billy Whizz’ but found the upper crack was damp and greasy and he took a rather large slump, in his words something I would consider to be a 20-30ft fall! All in all good trip to ‘the Peak’

Spring Comes Early.

(For a day!) The weather had been exceptionally windy, which was a blessing in disguise because although there had been damage to property and roads closed due to falling debris and toppled lorries, the crags were bone dry. Come sunday, even the wind had subsided, so we decided to travel to the Wainstones, which we found were in perfect condition.

I had some gremlins to settle, mostly the boulder problems i had not paid enough attention to, namely Pebble Climb V3. Got the sequence in a couple of goes and finished it, i was happy. Then decided to go after another V3, with Redhead's Roof however, this is somewhat more difficult but perhaps i just didn't get the sequence, i reckon probably V4.

Staring up at the Crag, i realised that it wasn't Park Nab and that these routes were more serious, lines such as Sesame and East Sphinx Variant, that i had thought about on the drive, as being "Easy ticks" were not going to fall today, due to a lack of "high" climbing over the winter period.

Franco, nails the Sphinx Direct E3 6a.
Indeed, i did very little for such a great day, because besides the boulder problems and a good tick of 'North Route' up the Needle (something i had wanted for a year!) that was it for my climbing, the rest of the time i spent watching Ian violate the Sphinx as i took photos...

Ian, makes the crux move ofWest Sphinx Direct E3 5b.

However, it was good to revisit the crag and know that there is A LOT for me there yet, something i thought could probably be wrapped up in a couple of trips.

Really looking forward to all that the spring brings, especially the longer nights! Should mean the smaller crags around us that cannot supply a full days climbing, should be used to aid the progression and the routes that we have been unable to do, such as the E3 Waves Within at Camp Hill, should probably be climbed. Bring on Spring and the day the clocks change!

Great start to the New Year!

First climbing trip of the New Year, we decided to head to our local and almost exhausted crag, Park Nab. There were a few difficult lines that we wished to try, plus a boulder that was in need of a visit.

We climbed a variation finish on a route that had thwarted me in the past, 'Pessimist' had always been in the back of my mind, so i decided that enough was enough, so i climbed the 'Right Hand Variant' instead.
Franco then Worked Mowgli Direct (Achillies Last Stand), resulting in a bold Solo, which i did the second ascent of, however, the holds were chalked up for me and i knew the line was climbable. This detracted slightly from the climb, however, i enjoyed the fact we climbed a quality route at a quality crag.

We found the boulder, and did some lines. Good Quality and a good place to go when i am without a partner or just on summer evenings.

We however, rushed back for an evening of homework finishing and frantic revising as the Winter hols were over, and College awaited us the next day.

An Uneventful Year Ender - Farndale

First forecast good day of weather for a few days, so Me and Franco decided to go to some of our more local crags. Farndale hosts two very nice but Esoteric locations, one of which Round Crag, boasts some of the hardest and boldest routes on the Moors. We set off on our bikes to the Forgotten and somewhat un-developed Middle Head.
There were quite a few routes we had lined up there, but as we raced along the old Railway track joing Rosedale with Teeside we knew the conditions weren't right, and also, that they weren't going to improve.
Sure enough, when we reached Middle Head, the seepage was evident and the lines we wished to climb were somewhat 'Out of Condition'. We non the less geared up and attempted a route i had wanted to do for some time.
The Roof crack, which the route took was good and dry, but the Slab above was wet and dirty, so i saw it neccasary to take a sneeky step left, to gain the top more easily.
Fran then decided to try and climb the good looking unclimbed arete, which unfortunately, ended up summing up what the days climbing was. Utter Toss. Not because of the Route i hasten to add, but because it started to rain.
Rock that was trying to dry up, soon became drenched with the seepage off the moortop and try as we might, the Arete was not going to fall.. Quite the opposite, the arete caused many falls for myself and Franco.

Battered and bruised, we set off for our bikes and we decided that a rekky to Round Crag was in order. No climbing was going to get done due to the foul weather so we decided to check out routes that "looked Doo-able" and see if there was some potential for some bouldering around the Crag.

We looked at the routes and discussed the talent involved in establishing these lines. Farndale Fayre and Scut di Scun ai were both looked at in Awe. Both routes unprotected, hard 6b/c climbing with awful landing's.

We made our usual remarks when we have a disapointing day at the crag, 'We'll come back in Summer and lead some stuff and that' the response, from either party is usually 'Iy'.

We set off once more on our bikes, but this time we headed home. Damp and a tad cold due to this, it was a disappointing end to what has been a great year of climbing.

Ps. I ended up forgetting 4 Karabiners and 2 slings, so i had to journey back to Middle Head on my bike in Freezing/foggy conditions. I arrived at the crag after an awful bike ride through Snow, and frost was developing on me. My face was numb and my feet wet. I found the crag after getting lost in the Fog and saw that Verglass had developed on the crag, but was now slowly melting. I got my gear and set off home.

I arrived home, completely numb. My clothes wet and slightly frosty. My hands were blue with orange spots...(god knows why that was!) and all i wanted to do was sleep. However after a quick shower i knew i had to do my homework.

Grit - Slipstones

What i thought was my first trip to the fabled Gritstone, turned out to be a great 2 days of climbing, however, it wasn't my first day on Grit'. Grit' i was told, was only to be found in the Peak District. Never the less, the climbing on Gritstone was brilliant, the friction for ones feet was supurb compared to Yorkshire Sandstone and the Routes allowed for plenty of Soloing to be done. Indeed, as the guidebook stated, it is a good place to push one's grade.

The first route i climbed was 'Ginger Badger' HVS 5b. Good climbing and a good introduction to the crag. As was 'Breakwind Arete', a route where i fully experienced the friction of Grit. My feet smearing either side of the Arete, something that would be damn near impossible on Sandstone!.
The next route i got out the rope, 'Escalator' at HVS 5b was a good grade, but the reach at the end scared me so the rope was used, infact i had to make a small 'pop' for the top and this adequately scared me enough, to allow Nick to lead me up some good HS's and even a spot of bouldering!!!

I then climbed one of the best routes i have ever done. 'Original Route' HVS 5a was just fantastic climbing, on good holds, quite pumpy and with a terrible fall, but the route was positive and thoughly enjoyable. As was Gollingith, E1 5b just to the right. Starts up a pumpy crack. This made the finish, over the overhanging wall of 'Original Route' quite interesting!

I returned a week later with my brother. I climbed a few more routes at the crag mainly around E1 but the day was less fulfilling as my first day on Grit'. However, Beldin Variation was worth the trip! A more taxing route than Beldin itself, the start is slightly desperate and then the sloping traverse was very new to me indeed! I rammed some cams in and began the traverse. I reached the finishing crack, pumped. However, i decided it nessisary to place anothe cam. With this in, i made the 'bold' top out move. Disaster, my last Cam walked and jammed the rope under the lip of the overhang! I was left to delicately and dangerously untie on the lip of the overhang, one handed using my Nut Key!

A hell of a scarer and a good lesson for fully extending Cams!

Lakeland Classics

A flying visit to Shepherd's Crag, ended up being one of the most amazing days i've had climbing. I did not like Rhyolite at all at first, and i struggled up a VS with Lewis Dale. I then soloed a HVS called T.D.M, which scared me as i was unsure about the rock, but i was bored because Fran and Lewis were climbing on Little Chamonix. It's THAT classic lakeland route, and i wanted to do it, but it deserved something extra special. Fran answered the thought by saying "Fancy a Solo?"

71m is quite a considerable Solo, especially on polished, unfamiliar rock - even though it is a VD.

We set off, and soon we were on the georgously exposed last pitch. Pulling up on those flakes was a joy and i even had the audacity to hang around for a couple of pictures.

We spend a week in the Lakes climbing at Castle Rock, Eagle Crag (Grisedale), Durple Gill, Gowbarrow, but on the last day we did some fantastic stuff.

We returned to Castle Rock, having failed on Triermain Eliminate due to rain, we decided to go after lower numbers. I climbed Zig Zag and the Fantastic Overhanging Bastion with my brother, thus ticking two of the most celebrated routes on the Crag.

Me and Fran then turned are attention to another lakeland classic, Harlot Face. This summed up to be one of the most extreme routes we have done. It is E1 5b, it is on steep exposed terrain but it has a gentle side because of it's very well protected crux. However, we had never climbed E1 over 8m before and Rhyolite is a different propostion to good old North Yorks Sandstone.

Fran climbed the first pitch, up to the ledge at half height. This was the worst pitch, it was lacking on gear and was suffering from seepage and moss. We climbed this eventhough it was out of condition, and then came my lead, the crux.

This involves climbing the Overhanging crack of Triermain Eliminate and then swinging boldly out right onto the ajoining slab. The route then follows reasonably juggy ground to a vegetated belay, and safety. This was a great achievement, our first "proper" E1 lead and it was done in less than ideal conditions.