Dave Macleod's Anubis

I don't generally discuss climbing, as i'm a climber with fairly poor ethics. Indeed, not only this but i can barely put an argument together, but i feel the need to comment on Anubis - perhaps it's time i changed my perspective on climbing.
Dave's come in for some flak as a result of this latest winter exploit, which you can read all about on DaveMac's blog or UKC. There is a fairly split population mainly at two extremes. There are the hero worshipping 'followers' who expect this E8 winter line to be Scottish XVI and then there's the 'this is not a winter route it's a drytool on the ben' brigade.
Rather un-interestingly i find myself agreeing with both sides and my opinion is as follows:
The route, viewed from photos taken on the day of the ascent clearly show it isn't in what many would suggest was winter nick, theres no hoar/rime and limited ice - but it's a mixed climb so your climbing on rock mainly anyway. Personally, rime/hoar is purely an aesthetic thing in my mind as although it adds to the experience of the climb and difficulty to a degree it has it's problems, such as the fact you have to strip it off the crag in order to climb it, which scratches the rock much more than if you could see you placements first time. I really don't think a crag has to be COVERED in rime to be in winter nick, though a black crag is a bit of a piss take in a winter sense.
Dave said there was Ice in the back of the crack and that he placed an ice hook - if true and i can't see him lying, then it's a winter ascent. People have said they don't believe that. Well fair enough to them, but ultimately he climbed the line in the middle of winter, in subzero-icy conditions, with a bit of ice and hooks. Mixed for my money.
I think my main opinion, is however if myself and Franco rocked up to Eagle Crag in Grisedale and boshed our way up Kestrel Wall, or indeed went up and tooled on the Ben - we'd be hunted down by these ravenous UK/UKC winter ethics police and made to answer for our crimes. Obviously DaveMac hasn't 'got away' with it, as such but he has the profile to shrug it off not a problem - similarly with Dave Birkett in the lakes this year. There was a bit of questioning with his classic rock climb but nothing like the level of pure hatred if a 'punter' had done it...
Indeed, a punter like me got a bit of flak as a result of climbing Chock Gully in 'very powdery' conditions. The conditions we climbed Chock Gully in was certainly wintery! The gully was full of powder, the ice below the chockstone was a bit poor but it was there and without it it would have been impossible to get to the 'stone. Tackling the stone itself was more 'drytoolie' as the crack on the left was iced but there was no lovely ice corner or chandelier as in the 70's and 80's.
My point being we raised a few eyebrows climbing that, so if we stuck a photo of us on some crag with bugger all hoar on the rock, we wouldn't have a leg to stand on - as they would have been ripped off and used as belays by the rabid anti mixed climbing brigade...
Summer routes in my opinion, are meant to be climbed in winter a matter or progression, provided they are good winter lines eg Engineer Slabs or Bowfell Buttress. Anubis, certainly looks the test-piece.

DaveMac, good work.

No one reads this blog, so it would be interesting if someone had an opinion to my ramblings...!

2009

Sat here attempting to revise maths (for Geology), it got me thinking about the last year. It's actually been a good'un! 2009 as a climbing year didn't start til April for me. A mixture of A level exams and a lack of psyche limited my climbing to the odd soloing day at Park Nab. However, the final act my Ford Focus did before dying was to get myself and Franco to Pallet Crag near Barnard Castle. Not a particularly immense venue but we climbed the mini-classic Kermit (E1), which made me realise i hadn't lost any technique of my previous years hard work!
From that point on climbing began again in ernest, with bouldering circuits at Ravenswick Quarry, a weekend trip to the Peak, getting to the break on Moonflower first go and most significantly a day at Ingleby Incline. The significance was an onsight of Gym Junkies (E3 6b). Not only was i over the moon at still climbing E3, but 6b onsight was a rare thing, especially on trad - it is probably only 6a but the confidence it gave me was unreal.
For the next few months, over the summer (after exams it would seem) we journied around ticking 'classic' routes, many of which were on the wishlist for sometime! Prana (E3), Darklands(E2), Mongol (E2), Warrior (E2), Stargazer (E3+) and Poseidon Adventure (E4). THE find however was Ravensdale Quarry, with its stunning E5 (when we chop the fucking bolts!) Arete.
A trip combining the peak with the Lakes saw a couple of slab testpieces (for me anyway) despatched. Impossible Slab (E3) at Stanage and then Ten Years After (E4) at Hodge Close. The Significant ascent here was Ten Years After, my first proper E4 onsight.
Confident as hell, i swapped E4 slabs for E4 overhanging headwall cracklines and was utterly embarrassed by the Redhead/Shorter classic Stratagem. Oh well, back to Earth with a bump!
The Final few days of our Peak house sitting, saw the ascents of some particularly hard routes for me. Time for Tea, Mad Dogs and Englishmen and Splintered Perspex at E3 and Cabbage Crack and Wizard of Aus at E4. Ultimately, the summer was reaching it's end and we had 2 weeks holiday in spain to look forward to before University, so I decided to try and repeat Franco's bold solution to Roseberry Main face. E5 6a is not my grade and it was blowing a gale, but it was the only day i could do it. I stuck a rope down it and before i knew what i was doing i was clipping into the dubious lone friend, about to pull to the crux via the mono pocket. There were the usual onlookers from the top as i pulled through the sequence. So glad i got this done when i did, as i wouldn't have done it yet if i hadnt!
Spain was nice, but made me realise i was totally weak. The fact i was struggling on 6c+/7a while Franco nearly Redpointed a 7c+ was a bit of a piss take. He is stronger than me, but i did'nt think by that much. I tried the 7c+ and only got a few metres up it. University saw Gritstone of the Yorkshire Variety being climbed upon. I don't like Grit but the Geology course at Leeds is good. I will strive to climb more on the lime than the Grit this year. Some nice folk and some nice soloing days at Eastby and Caley, with some good routes like Tufted Crack, Sylveste, Ron's Reach and Scar have been enough to keep my climbing going until the winter began.
There was a trip to Northumberland and Tremadog before this, which were nice. The Arches in Northumberland and The Plum at T'dog were particularly rewarding.
But so came the winter. I was scared of winter because of the escapade on the Ben 2 years previous, but i was up for getting back into it via easy routes and lots of them. In usual 'moors' manner however we didn't do this. Quite the opposite.
The first route was a FWA of some ungradeable corner crack. We couldn't grade it as we hadn't climbed anything mixed before and had no idea about winter grades. The next day would put us straight... Bowfell Buttress V,6 was ticked by Luke, franco and I. It was less technical than the Corner crack! So we gave it V,7. Great to start easy ey! Chock Gully was another route to go. V,5 when in icy condition, we tackled it in an acceptably icy, powdery mixed condition. It was lean and hard and scary! Franco and Luke tried an 'FA' which later turned out to be VIII,8 and i took my brother to Portcullis Ridge for his first winter route. What a leg-end.

I really can't complain with the way this year has gone. Topping it next year will require effort. But trips with the LUUMC, the Alps and Yorkshire limestone should see a few more laughs, epics and routes ticked.

Breakfast related twaddle.

Portcullis Ridge - Deepdale

What a brilliant little mountaineering route this is, i wasn't sure what to expect as the various online descriptions suggested 'a mountaineering route' (FRCC) or a 50m pitch to easier climbing (rockfax). In the end, i turned up with my brother with the summer guide.

We wandered up a snowy Deepdale and exchanged banter with a couple of nice chaps off up to do Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby. One of the climbers said that the second half of the ridge was a beaut and that his friend reckoned the first ridge (crux) was one of the nicer IV's in the lakes.

I however, was unsure and not truly knowing the line and the grade (no feedback on ukc) i was slightly apprehensive.

The walk up to the valley head gave the route a mountainous feel, not like slogging up to tick a winter pitch and head back to the pub. I also found the valley less labourious than Grisedale, which was nice.

At the base of the route i took a good 5 minutes looking at the ridge. I read the summer description and tried to remember the online winter description. Start on the right and then do something, to reach a steep crux wall high on the first steeper ridge.

I geared up and told nick to keep moving while he was belaying (this would be his first winter climb). I started to the right of the foot of the buttress up some turfy grooves. It looked easy, but it was steeper than expected. Some tricky bulges through corners and some mixed moves. I felt that i may have not been on the right route, but it was a strong line in my eyes! I found gear placements poor and far apart, but i wasnt exactly gripped.

Finding a belay was my objective though. My limited winter experiences have told me that a truly bomber belay is essential, but often tricky to find, even on mixed terrain. I might purchase some warthogs, pegs and bulldogs...

I found a rock stance after a short traverse left to below some steep terrain. I felt like rapping off due to the fact i wasnt entirely sure about where i was going and the first pitch was much bolder, and trickier than i expected, it would have been nicer with a Bulldog or Warthog!

Nick came up with his usual grace and technique (read shear physical prowess), some of his axe placements looked like they would never come back out!

He arrived at the belay and congratulated me on my bold lead, something he said 'looked piss, but was steeper than expected!'

At this point, i was glad i had left our rucksacks at the base, as the steep ground above looked tricky and proper rock mixed.

I pulled onto a ledge and saw a nice 4-5metre splitter crack, with an insitu Bulldog! Booyah! I had never been so happy to arrive at the crux of a route. I knew now i was actually climbing the right route, which at the end of the day is what i wanted to do! Also the crack looked nicely technical, i possibly not 4?

I pulled up to it and clipped the Bulldog. I then placed an axe in the crack. Lovely placement. I pulled up and hooked an axe out left for balance, a frozen mossy crack allowing a half hook/torque placement which allowed me to replace my right hand axe higher up the crack. From this point, i moved up on a couple of small rock rails and a high foot move into the crack. I felt a bit sketchy and my gear (the bulldog) was at the base of the crack so i would have hit the ledge below without doubt.

For some unknown reason to, i had Thin Lizzys' 'Hero and the Madman' going around and around in my head. "Those that knew you, always said you'd go far. Are you the one whom i think you are? ...Oh, are you the hero? ...Oh, are you the madman?...Oh, are you the Hero? .. Oh, are you the madman?... The madman climbed the steeple spire..." and so on!

Bizarre.

I thew an axe to the top and rather un-expectedly hit some unfrozen turf... great (f**k) i thought. I tried again and once again, shit turf. Up to this point the turf was fine, not rock solid but fine. Why now was it dodgy. I thew again and felt the unmistakeable placement of an axe into hardturf, with the added bonus of possibly a rock embedded in the turf. Sweet.

Big pull into the powder above and then romped up to a spike belay. Due to Nick forgetting his belay plate (Ohhhh what terrible memories) i was belaying Nick using Italian hitches on two Krabs. It was a bit of a pain!

I decided, seeing as i didnt truly know the pitches difficulties i would lead again, just incase. Anyway, the rockfax description said 50metres to the top of the difficulties, this was the second pitch probably around 70 metres from the base.

At the top of the 3rd pitch was the halfway col, where the second ridge led to the top. Apparently grade II, we discussed whether to continue, but in the end the strong wind and the fact descents down snow was somewhat sketchy due to the windslab, i decided to head-off the right hand side, back to the rucksacks.

I didn't really feel it was a good choice to keep climbing as it would only be sensible to pitch it with Nick, but using an Italian hitch on halfropes up was just an annoyance. Never mind, i was happy to do the first ridge and the fact it took 3 pitches was an added benefit. Nick said his back was causing him some discomfort as well so i was happy with my decision.

A damn good effort from Nick anyhow, he didn't fall off and belayed well, the whole situation is somewhat different to summer trad.

End of all things, is that the route is well worth doing! A gem of a route at the head of Deepdale and although it is well worth a visit in its own right, it is worth baring in mind, if you happen to be heading up to do Pendulum Ridge and it's got a few parties on it!

Winter Madness: Part Three

Franco and I were very happy with our climbing in the Lakes, so much so we threw caution to the wind and went to try the 'seldom in condition', Cold Climbs classic, Chock Gully V,5.

There was a lot of snow about, the walk in was much harder than on previous days with drift and powder.
We arrived at the base of the Gully. It was full of powder, avalanches of powder cutting rivers of snow through the snow already in place. Franco started up the gully.

An hour or so later, i could see him. White with powder as he finally managed to swim his way up the constantly replenishing 8ft powder drifts. He then shouted down to 'pay attention' as he was on rotton ice below the Chock. He managed it and set up his belay sheltered from the constant powder avalanches.

I followed up and found it thoroughly unpleasant, though, quite fun! However, Franco insisted that i had a crack at the Chock pitch, which i was not sure about!

I found a crunched up rest under the chock and placed a nut and clipped a peg. I stuck my head out and got nailed by an avalanche of powder. It was cold.

Franco then said, 'It's Clear!' so i leaned out and slammed an axe into the crack, torqued and then thrashed around trying to get some purchase in the powder above.

I was gripped, worried that i would fall awkwardly and i was fighting a loosing battle pulling into the steep powder. I saw grass, and slammed my axe into it. Bomber. I swung from the left of the chock to the right gully wall and hauled my way into the unstable snow. I dug and dug and dug, intent on finding gear so i wouldn't end up below that hideous chockstone! I found a new, though slightly poor peg! I shouted in delight!

What followed was a carbon copy of the first pitch. The Cold Climbs story by Birkett, said 'easy snow slopes' leads from the Chock. The 8ft powder made this, somewhat untrue! Swimming, bridging and awful ice steps led up to a narrowing and a mixed step up and left. Scared i placed a hex, which when i pulled on to the step, fell out. My heart raced as if i fell i would end up below the chock, or as a chock myself!

I couldn't go on any futher and managed to find a few cracks, so i set up a rather poor belay. I couldn't help laughing as i began to force my limited gear into any conceivable gap.

Franco managed to second the pitch and then lead past my cramped stance. I was extremely happy when he began to pull in the slack up to the top pitch.

An immense route, which was truly brilliant, even if it was in 'poor nick' in so much as there was too much snow!

We swam back down to Grisedale Tarn in the powder drifts, absolutely knackered but we knew we had done an absolutely amazing climb!

More tired, wine related bollocks.

Winter Madness. Part Deux.

After our 'FA', I had the feeling Franco was rather uninspired with grade III gullys and ridges. I also fully enjoyed the technical outing the day previous.
Luke Hunt had arrived that evening and declared the conditions 'prime mixed conditions!'. He then said, that Bowfell Buttress was high on his list and fancied a trip to langdale.
I was sceptical, knowing that Bowfell was a mixed climb at V,6 but quite sustained really with pitches of IV and V. I was slightly worried to say the least, not just because of the events on the Ben but also because i didn't feel i was good enough to get on such a classic route. Franco said, in his usual confident manner or 'ultra-psyche' that he was up for it and that i was good enough.

Another issue was that snow was forecast and i didnt fancy trying to get the Renault back from Langdale to Grisedale.
My first trip to Bowfell, was a nice walk in, in perfect winter conditions. -7 celsius according to the car, was a pleasant suprise and when we arrived at the route we were amazed to see a couple of lads already there!
These lads turned out to be Jamie and Tim from Leeds, which was a pleasant coincidence. Conditions were a bit poor low down, so we avoided the first pitch and i, intent not to second the whole route, said i would lead the IV groove even though i had no idea whether or not i could truely lead IV?!
The pitch was similar to the top groove of our FA the day previous, hence the grade given. I then seconded the rest of the climb, with Franco leading the 6 crack and the top pitch being a cracker, led by Luke.
It wasn't over though. Franco and Luke went FA hunting on the buttress opposite, climbing the horribly obvious hard looking corner. Franco and luke said it was both commiting and poorly protected in parts. I just stood in the blizzard for an hour or 3 watching!
They abandoned the attempt due to darkness falling and the worsening weather. I was not looking forward to driving home!
We walked back to the car and then had fun and games sliding our way back to Ambleside! A couple of sideways slides in a Renault Espace is enough to give you a bit of a scare.
Scarier than the mixed climbing!

Hut ramblings about Photos, wine and other bollocks.

Winter Madness - Part 1.

It's been a while since i found inspiration to write about my climbing exploits, a combination of poor weather and lack of psyche meant to bugger all climbing to speak of. Admittedly, a cool trip to Tremadog with the LUUMC and Franco was a good bit of weather dodging wales action. A snowy Slate Quarries allowed a quick ascent of 'Goose Creature - E3' and then a showery Tremadog allowed a beautiful climb of the uber-cool 'The Plum -E1'.

However, the winter came on the week before Christmas. Phonecalls and Facebook planning saw myself and Franco meeting up in the Lakes at Grizedale.
I was 'psyched' not to repeat the events of 2years ago in Scotland on the Ben, i was quite content to tick a load of III's and possibly a IV, but just happy to get out and get experienced.

The first morning saw us climb to Nethermost Cove, with an idea of doing the grade II gully, prominent on the hillside. However, it was clear that the route was not 'in'. Snow was limited and although it was cold, there was a lot of rock exposed in the gully, this was Mixed conditions.
So, staying true to my ambitions of grade III cruising... I allowed franco to talk me into climbing a potential First Winter Ascent of a prominent bulging corner, around 100metres to the left of Nethermost Gully.
We arrived after some grade II mixed steps and soloing, which was about as close as i came for the whole long weekend, to 'easy' climbing.
Franco geared up for the imposing overhanging start to the crack. It was the sort of climb that looked HVS in summer. A couple of useful turf tufts proved inviting enough, we also new that 'Torquing' would prove invaluable. Franco started and amazingly onsighted the heinous corner, with aid of the iced crack, i asked if the belay was bomber!!! It was.
I started up the corner and removed the tricams in the ice crack. Bomber... I then placed my axe in the crack pulled and then smashed the ice out. Pisser.
As a result i had to torque my axes more in the crack more than Franco, but it was probably of similar difficulty. As we wandered down Striding Edge, we laughed at our first lakes route, indeed, our first mixed route being an FA, onsight! We had no idea what grade it was, but we knew it would be something like V, 7 due to the fact it was a nails move, but very well protected by winter standards! Its a clear crux pitch, around 30metres with scrambling before and a 30metre grade III/IV up the continuation corner. All in all, we believe it is a good addition to the routes in the Helvellyn range.

Listening to madness in the Landy.

The shite weather continues and the term end nears.

Uni has been a fairly decent aspect of my life, fair to say i enjoy it. Plenty of time for climbing, access to a indoor wall and outdoor venue (henry price) has meant i'm feeling stronger.
Problem is, im completely dissatisfied with my achievements climbing wise in the Yorkshire Grit scene.
Since hitting Caley in Freshers week, i've done nothing but highball soloing, bouldering and the odd micro route. Don't get me wrong there is some good climbing to be had in this manner, but im feeling abit disappointed in myself for not getting to places with 'proper' routes. I seem to be favouring the easy option of crags that you can solo all the routes - even if i carry my gear there anyway!
Admittedly, there have been some decent routes done in this time, namely; Scar - Baildon Bank, The Padder - Eastby, Cat's Eyes - Cat Crags, Wailing Wall - Hetchell, Ron's Reach - Caley, Slyveste - Ilkley and Tufted Crack - Ilkley.

I wish it was dry for longer than a day so i could climb on the Limestone. I reckon for the best results on the grit in the next few weeks Crookrise, Eastby, Heptonstall and Almscliffe need to be visited.
That said, if it wasn't for Ewan - i'd have done no climbing whatsoever as my psyche to get on a bus and try to get to a crag reduced significantly after the first week!